How To Run A Computer Diagnostics On Your Benz And How To Download The Software 'Xentry' Easily Online

What is Xentry DAS Diagnostics?

Xentry DAS (Diagnostic Assistance System) is the complete diagnosis system that is used to troubleshoot Mercedes-Benz car problems and is the official Mercedes-Benz dealer software. It can configure, reprogram, initialization of new components, program, perform guided tests, read or erase fault codes in any of the systems including AirMatic, AirBag, SRS, EIS, Transmission, ETS, BAS,  and all of the control modules. DAS Xentry softwaff

DAS Xentry program Diagnostic Software for Mercedes Benz

The c3 multiplexer is an earlier model that was replaced by the C4 SD Connect. To operate Xentry, you will need a laptop with a serial port RS232 to connect the Multiplexer and run the Xentry software. The online marked is flooded with pirated versions of Xentry Diagnostic scanner, so be careful and avoid those hacked versions. Online merchant which may not be authorized resellers, distribute the software and show you how to install Xentry. Be wise when you purchase a Xentry DAX Multiplexer as there seems to be a lot of cloned versions on the market. Unfortunately, there isn’t a good way to know what is original or not. Buying DAS Xentry program Diagnostic Software for Mercedes Benz on Amazon at least adds an extra layer of protection in case there is an issue.


How to install 2014.01 DAS Xentry for benz Star c3 Software

Star c3 Sd connect c4 is professional auto diagnostic tool for benz mercedes vehicles. Together with latest DAS Xentry will work for more latest car model. Nowadays, Auto Diagnostic obd 2014.1 DAS Xentry Diagnosis Software is released. Do you know how to install DAS Xentry software for benz Star c3 on your pc, this Installation guide also fit with the Mercedes DAS Xentry diagnosis software of SD connect compact c4.

2014.01 MB Star C3 C4 XENTRY Diagnosis Software for All PC

Online Installation guide of 2014.01 DAS Xentry for benz Star c3 Software

1. Install Windows XP SP3 preferably OEM disc, for newer PC’s you’ll need one with SATA drivers integrated.

2. During Windows XP install, partition your HDD as follows:
C: STAR approx. 25GB
D: RECOVER approx. 20GB
E: WIS approx. 35GB
F: DAS approx. 30GB

3. Create two user accounts Star and Owner and log in into both.

4. Install all the necessary drivers based on your computer model.

5. Disable the internal DVD-ROM from device manager.

6. Install basic apps such as Daemon Tools to create virtual drive G and WinRAR.

7. Disable screen saver and change power options to Never from the control panel.

8. Copy “Newguide2i” to desktop and run “WFPSwitch” and restart PC, this will remove “keep unwanted files” error during install.

9. Copy VBoxService to Startup folder to enable AppID 253.
10. Run “prepare.bat” from “Newguide2i” and follow the simple onscreen instructions.

11. Set system date approx. to one month after Star DVD release.

12. After restart, open “StarUtilities” and enter DAS and Xentry key, with AppID 252.

13. Mount SD_DVD_01_2014_1 to drive G: and run setup from “SDSwitch”.

14. To bypass hardware check for non ADSTEC C4TT13 systems, as soon as the install begins, quickly navigate to
“E:ServiceSKCstandaloneSDStartKeyCenter” and DELETE “DeviceDetect.dll” to avoid the infamous “non-Star Diagnosis system”
error.
15. Setup continues and you get an error prompting you to enter Xentry key as no valid key was found. Click OK and “StartKey Centre” opens, apply keys and move on.

16. System will restart and if setup doesn’t, re-run again from drive G: by clicking “SDSwitch”.

17. Patiently wait as it installs SD_DVD_01_2014_1.

18. System restart and gives you an error, "No valid CD found! Errorcode=102” ignore by clicking OK.

19. Navigate to “C:ProgrammeTemp” and DELETE “ComputerModel.vbs” script, this will allow you to install
SD_DVD_01_2014_2 without the “non-Star Diagnosis system” error.
20. Mount SD_DVD_01_2014_2 to drive G: and run setup from “SDSwitch”.
21. Patience is key as the very lengthy procedure begins.
22. You get the message “Setup Complete” Click to restart your system, but hold up do not restart, run “after installation.bat” and click on to restart system.
23. Systems comes on and hotfix install begins, approx. 91 of them so wait as they finish.
24. Hotfix install completes and system is ready to start and viola you’ve got a full SD 01.2014 on a machine of your choice!!!!!
25. If you still want DAS in standalone you’ll find das32r2.exe for 01.2014 in this forum.
26. Proceed to install ADD ONS manually which can be downloaded from here =>>

http://go.ad2up.com/afu.php?id=939126

http://stardiagnosis.aftersales.daimler.com/query/query/dvd/lang/en/branch/CARS/dvd/DVD201401

Then you can use your Xentry DAS 01.2014 software.

Programming and modifications instructions.

For a more complete of programming that you can perform with Star Diagnostic tool visit this forum thread:

Programing Mercedes-Benz using Xentry DAS Star Diagnostic

What is SD Media?

SDMedia (Star Diagnosis Media) is a collection of video, audio and text files that will help any technician gain knowledge on how to troubleshoot Mercedes-Benz cars.

What is WIS?

WIS.net stands for Workshop Information System. It has how-to information, instruction, digrams, specification data on how to perform any repair on Mercedes-Benz cars.

What is STAR Tekinfo? 

STAR TekInfo is the officail Mercedes-Benz USA LLC website that provides repair documentations and training. It is supported by MBUSA Dealer Workshop Services Department. It includes information on repairs, tools and scan tool diagnostic. You can subscribe by subscribing to post comment.

This Article is powered by Automobile Villa Workshop. If you are interested in this field or any advice, please contact autovillian.blogspot.com

How To Service Your Automatic Gear Transmission; Do It Yourself

The automatic transmission is one of the hardest working and most sophisticated parts of your car. The engine works most efficiently at a relatively narrow range of engine RPM, and only uses energy effectively at the middle of that range.

The transmission has to convert the engine output to speeds and torque so it becomes practical for driving. In the case of an auto trans, it has to make the adjustments automatically, using a complex system of mechanics and hydraulics.
Doing this places tremendous stresses on the auto transmission – force, pressure, heat and friction. This can cause tiny metal particles to come off the gears and other components, contaminating the transmission fluid. The more of these abrasive bits there are, the worse the fluid performs, causing greater wear.
It’s a vicious cycle you should break regularly to preserve your automatic transmission and its performance… or be prepared for major costs.
That’s why you need to service your auto transmission regularly – at least every 15 months or 25,000km and more frequently if you use your vehicle for towing or in environments that cause a lot of stopping and starting. Some models may also require more regular transmission servicing. Your transmission specialist can advise you on this.
How to Service an Automatic Transmission Yourself.

We have divided the servicing into 4 parts and we will walk you through them easily.
1. Determine Your Transmission's Levelling System
2. Draining Your Automatic Transmission
3. Levelling Your Transmission Fluid
4. Stay on the Level

1. Determine Your Transmission's Levelling System

There are three main ways which your automatic transmissions can be levelled with the correct amount of oil.
Dipstick, Levelling Bung and Levelling Tube. First of all establish what kind of levelling system your transmission uses.

If your transmission has a dipstick then you level the transmission in the same way you level your engine oil; by dipping the transmission and adding more fluid until the level is correct. This is the easiest and less common.
If your transmission uses a level bung, you will need a way of pumping the fluid into the transmission from underneath, and you will also need something to catch the oil.

The level bung will be somewhere on the transmission at a higher point that the drain bung, and the levelling process involves pumping transmission fluid into the box until it starts coming out of the levelling bung.

Please note: DON'T just guess which bit to undo when removing a sump or level bung. Some transmission have components fixed in place from the outside, and undoing these by accident will likely result in the transmission needing to be removed and dismantled, A levelling tube often sits in the hole through which the transmission should be drained, and must be removed in order to drain the oil.
Finally, we have the levelling tube. The levelling tube works in the same manner as the levelling bung in that you pump fluid into the transmission until it starts to come back out. The problem is that the levelling tube is often inside the drain bung, meaning you have to check whether there is enough fluid using the same hole you are filling it through. Needless to say, this is the most difficult (and messiest) way of levelling an automatic transmission.

2. Draining Your Automatic Transmission
Understand that, in a typical transmission oil service, you will only be changing about two thirds of the oil in your transmission. Gravity can only get so much of the fluid inside, the rest remains in places like the transmission cooler, the torque converter, and various places inside the transmission itself. You can have your transmission “power flushed” to be sure you’re getting a complete oil change, but that requires specialist equipment and is not something you’re likely to be tackling yourself (unless you own a garage!).

With that in mind, you will need to establish which is your drain bung, find something to catch your old transmission fluid (and have a responsible way of disposing of it), and the means to get under your vehicle.

If your transmission employs a dipstick or a drain bung, simply place your waste oil receptacle so that it will catch the oil and undo the bung. If your transmission uses a levelling tube, you will need to undo the levelling bung first, then wind out the tube as well.
Leave your transmission draining until the oil coming out slows to a trickle. You can leave it longer if you wish, but be aware that it will continue to trickle out for hours if you let it. If you really want to be thorough, you could leave it overnight to get as much oil out as you can, but given that the best you can hope for is still around two thirds of the total transmission fluid, it’s probably not worth it leaving for too long. There are many specifications of transmission fluid. Make sure you have the right one for your gearbox.

3. Levelling Your Transmission Fluid
Once you have drained the oil to your satisfaction, refit the sump bung (replace it if you want to be really thorough), unless your transmission uses a levelling tube, in which case just replace the tube.

Begin refilling your transmission with fresh fluid, ensuring the oil you’re using is the correct specification for your particular transmission. If you’re filling from underneath, pump the oil in while watching for the oil coming back out. If, in the course of filling the transmission, you are obstructing the levelling hole/tube, pause every so often to check that the oil is not trying to come back out. If your transmission has a dipstick, simply pour the oil through the dipstick using a funnel.

Once the oil is levelled… you’re nearly done.

You see, when an automatic transmission is running, it pumps the transmission fluid around the transmission system, including the cooler and torque converter. This is relevant to you because when the transmission is running, the oil level drops significantly as the oil is taken up into the system. It’s the oil level while running that you need to work with.

So. Once the oil is levelled, make sure your vehicle is in park, fire up the engine, and then do it again. This time, once the oil is levelled, you’re done. You can put everything back together and clean up the mess you inevitably made.

If possible, you should drive the vehicle, being sure to get all the gears, and then check the level again to be sure. However, as long as the level was not sitting on the minimum when checked, it should be fine. The specification of fluid varies from transmission to transmission. Do some research and make sure you're using the right fluid for your transmission.

4. Stay on the Level
It seems obvious, but it’s worth pointing out that in order to get an accurate reading of the oil level, your vehicle needs to be as close to horizontal as possible. This means no sloped driveways, and no jacking the front end of the car up.

Easy Steps To Service Your Car Engine: Do It Yourself

A motor vehicle service is a series of maintenance procedures carried out at a set time interval or after the vehicle has traveled a certain distance. The service intervals are specified by the vehicle manufacturer in a service schedule and some modern cars display the due date for the next service electronically on the instrument panel.

Servicing your car engine is something that should be done every time your car hits 5,000km depending on the state of your car engine. Due to tight schedules some vehicle owners don't even service their engines for a long time, which causes the engine to weaken as the engine oil turns dark.

Sadly people tend to run to our mechanics anytime we have to do a little work on our car or when we notice a little fault that we need to fix, just out of ignorance or that it is too complex to fix it ourselves. The truth is that it spoils the fun of being a car owner. Look at it this way; you can't administer primary health care to your baby just because you think there are doctors who it is their job to do everything in that area including showing you how to feed your baby, now loosing the fun of being a parent. Besides not withstanding the mechanic fees.

This procedure will show you how you can service your car by yourself engine with ease in your garage confidently without having to pay your mechanic to do so. These procedures have four easy steps.

• Drain the old oil from the sump drain pump.
• Replace the oil filter.
• Pour the exact amount of new oil back into the engine.
• Start the engine

1. Draining the old oil

Have a container ready to catch the long jet of oil that comes out when the plug is removed.

The front or rear of the car, depending on engine layout, will usually have to be raised - either on ramps, or jacked up and supported on axle stands - to give working room under the engine.

The old oil should be drained with the engine warm, so that it flows more freely, taking with it any harmful deposits. Run the engine for a few minutes, then switch off and put a drain can or container big enough to hold all the engine oil under the sump drain plug.

Clean the plug with a clean rag and slacken it, using either a universal drain-plug key or a suitable ring spanner or socket, depending on the type of plug fitted.

Unscrew the plug, remove it by hand and let the oil flow into the can. Remember that the oil may be very hot, so avoid contact with it.

Wait until no more oil drips from the drain hole, then clean the drain-hole threads and the surrounding area with a clean cloth or tissue.

Clean the drain plug too, and make sure its washer or gasket is in good condition. Replace it if it is worn or broken. Refit the plug but do not overtighten it.

2. Replace the oil filter

Place the drain can directly under the oil filter - usually on the side of the engine crankcase. The filter can be one of two types - either a throwaway cartridge or, on older cars, a replaceable element inside a metal bowl.

A throw-away cartridge is usually unscrewed complete. Normally, you need a strap or chain wrench to free it. If you do not have one, hammer a long screwdriver through the filter and use that as a lever.
Remove the central bolt, supporting the bowl with one hand.
Remove the element and sealing ring.

Remove a replaceable-element filter by unscrewing the central bolt, either at the top on the face of the filter adaptor, or at the bottom of the bowl.

Hold on to the filter bowl until it can be completely detached, in case it drops and spills oil.

When the bowl is off, remove the sealing ring from its groove in the flange, using a sharp tool - a safety pin will do. Clean the groove thoroughly.
Empty the filter bowl and discard the old element, then clean the bowl.
Replace with new one.

3. Pour the exact amount of new oil back into the engine

The amount of oil that a normal car engine uses to function is about 8-9 litres approximately. Before you replace the oil make sure you know the exact amount of oil that goes into you engine, excess of oil poured into the engine can set the car on fire and lesser oil can can also knock the engine. For V6 and V8 272 and 273 Mercedes Benz engine uses up to 9 litres of oil.

4. Start the engine.

Watch to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up. Put your car in park or neutral with the parking brake on to check for any drips and look carefully under the car to check for any leaks or drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so to get the pressure up and ensure you've installed everything correctly.

The Disadvantages Of Washing Your Car Immediately After Driving A Long Distance: Leidenfrost Effect

People have not known this fact yet but it is a big factor for car owners when they wash their cars immediately when coming back from travel. A friend of mine complained of always changing his brake disc constantly or treating it because of rust or bending, anytime he tries to apply brakes on a high way the car vibrates rapidly and makes a rubbing metal sound. This could lead to brake failure or brake ceasing and can cause serious accident.

A Staff At Automobile Villa Workshop Treating A Brake Disc

Considering the effects of water on a hot metal, take for example you pour water in a very hot empty pot on your stove and If the temperature is high enough, you will see that the water drops will dance around the surface for some time before they disappear or consider a kerosene stove you always quench the fire with water all the time, this phenomenon is called Leidenfrost Effect.

The reason is called the Leidenfrost Effect: When the water touches the pan, a small layer of vapor forms around it. This vapor layer isolates the droplet from the hot surface and protects it from evaporation. And this effect causes rust of any metal it comes in contact with.

Please Note: Do not keep washing your cars immediately after driving a long distance or when your car is very hot because it can cause rusting of any component made of metal in your car, allow you car too cool first before washing it.

How To Set Your Engine Timing Chain And Balance Shaft Repairs

A client of mine came complaining to me of how he bought a brand new Mercedes Benz engine 273 for his car. He transferred money to the engine dealer and had it shipped to him from Lagos to Abuja. By the time the new engine was finally coupled into his Mercedes Benz the car couldn't start. He invited all the road side mechanics he thought were geniuses in fixing engines but none of them seemed to figure out why the engine won't work. Some of the mechanics suggested the new engine was faulty because it was easy for these quacks to blame the engine than themselves.

As my client couldn't take anymore of the humiliation and the over expenses this new engine is causing him he decides to call the dealer in Lagos and ask why the engine won't work. When the engine dealer finally answered his call after 2 days of trying to reach him, he gave a real bad attitude to my client and my client ended up not getting a satifying answer. Days to weeks and my client is getting impatient he made up his mind to go to Lagos and meet the dealer in person.

He meets dealer in Lagos and Mr dealer gave him a phone number of an auto engineer who finally set the engine timing and the car started. The process of fixing the engine didn't take up to an hour and he was charged the sum of forty thousand naira (N40,000).

Obviously these engine dealers can reset the engine timing, when they sell you the engine and you couple it in your vehicle the engine will not start until the timing is set. Most road sides have not upgraded past their old engine mechanics that is why many of them don't have the understanding of how the new generation cars seem to work. Some auto engineers have seem to be taking over from the road side street mechanics.

TIMING CHAINS and BALANCE SHAFT REPAIRS

Mercedes Benz Engine 273

The M112 and M113 engines built between 1999 and 2005 have been very reliable with respect to timing chains and in general. The M272 and M273 engine introduced in 2006 have had problems with the timing resulting from a worn balance shaft sprocket (M272) or timing chain idler gear on the M273. That gear may not have been hardened properly and is a subject of a class action lawsuit. The manufacturer will cover a decreasing percentage of the repair up to 125,000 miles. Check with the dealer of you have this issue with either or both codes 1200 and 1208 as they may cover part of the repair.

The repair involves removal of the engine, oil pans and front cover and all cam actuators, we replace the balance shaft or idler gear, the chain, any worn guides, the sheet metal pan if bent, the oil pump, the oil level sensor, and all parts supplied in the kit. This is a repair that we do regularly if you need it done please contact us. Due to the high cost this is sometimes put off, although it doesn’t lead to catastrophic failure it does shed a lot of metal bits into the engine and when the gear is worn to a nub we often find the guides are more worn. Some the guide require head removal to replace, so it may be beneficial to do the repair when the code is coming on/off rather than after it’s been on solid for awhile.

Modern timing chains can be expected to last the life of the engines if all the parts are manufactured correctly. We have seen some early M271 engines with broken chains, these are single row chains. If you have any abnormal engines noise on startup or chain noise you should have it checked. If your OBDII engine (built after 1997) has more than 150,000 miles on it and you have done all the scheduled maintenance chances are the timing chain is fine. If it isn't you might have code relative to the timing being off beyond a specified limit in the engine software. If it's an older engine from the 1970s or 1980s or has a single roller chain it may be needed. The only way to know for sure on an old engine or even a suspect newer engine is to check the base timing, if it’s off beyond the specification replace the chain and any worn guides. To check it, with the valve covers off rotate the engine at the crank bolt manually clockwise in the direction of engine rotation to TDC, either the cam timing marks line up or they will be off. If you are off 5 degrees of crank angle that’s 2.5 degrees of cam angle. It may require two revolutions of the crank to get the lines in a position where they can be checked. Don’t rotate counterclockwise if you overshoot TDC, you may brake a guide, over tighten the tensioner or jump timing. Regardless, you need to take up the chain slack to get a valid measurement so always only rotate in the direction of normal engine rotation.

Know the correct procedure as the M272 and M273 valve covers are bonded on and the timing is checked with the four cam sensor removed and the engine rotated until all 4 stamped circles on the pulse wheels are centered in the holes at a specific crank angle. On an installed engine this centering can be subjective with limited room using a mirror particular on a V8. The timing will be off on the right bank only, the off centering can be very slight in some cases. On a repaired or good motor it will be perfect. If the timing marks don’t line up you may have chain stretch or a worn sprocket. Installing an offset woodruff key in the crank sprocket is one solution for small corrections if you are building an vintage motor, but for anything more than a several degrees replace the chain. A chain may be up to $300 but consider the time involved to replace it later or if it fails. On an interference engine loss of the chain is loss of the engine in many cases, unless it occurs at low engine speeds. Even then valves will be bent on several cylinders, bent valves usually damage the guides on removal. If you replace the chain check the sprockets, and if blunted or rounded they should also be replaced. A worn sprocket will quickly wear out a new chain and it will cause the timing to be off. Consider chain and sprocket wear fitted parts, if either are worn replace them both. Realize that the labor to pull the front cover and replace all the sprockets is considerably more than feeding a new chain in, but it won’t last long if your sprockets are worn.

If you remove the timing chain then you removed the chain tensioner. If it’s the ratcheting hydraulic type or you may end up with a chain that's far too tight if you don’t reset it. You'll hear the chain noise if you missed this step and risk snapping a camshaft or braking the chain. To reset a ratcheting chain tensioner remove the Allen nut then the spring and spacer. Pull the pin out fully, it only goes one way. Then insert the pin in through the back make sure its not extended. Install the tensioner with the 27mm nut with the Allen nut not installed yet, torque in place. The chain should be properly installed and timed before installing the tensioner spring. Now insert the spring and spacer, compress the spring, with the Allen nut. Installing the Allen nut while compressing the spring is most easily done with an air ratchet, if you use air tools to start the job make sure to finish with a torque wrench. Some tensioners particularly on the newer engines after 2005 are disposable one use parts. They are released by turning the engine backwards at a specified torque while holding the right exhaust camshaft fixed. This presses the chain against the tensioner releasing it, as you rotate the engine clockwise from that point the tensioner will advance until the chain is properly tensioned. Know the type and design of the tensioner you are working with as this step is critical to having a successful repair.

To schedule an appointment to Service your Mercedes Benz with Automobile Villa please contact us today.